Agumbe
One of the wettest places in south India, this biodiversity hotspot is best visited in the monsoon
Santhosh Krishnamoorthy
Blue-eyed Bush Frog (Raorchestes luteolus) calling to attract a mate.
Agumbe
Agumbe is nestled in the Malnad region of Karnataka, in the heart of the Western Ghats. It receives very high rainfall from June, until September. The annual average can reach around 7,000mm. Compare this with a city like Bangalore, where the annual average is 859mm, and it’s clear why Agumbe is known as the Cherrapunji of the south.
When you visit Agumbe, you will traverse mist-covered roads winding through the lush green rainforests. There are gushing streams of water anywhere you look and the breeze has an inviting chill to it. Driving along the Ghats, one can expect to encounter anything from a King Cobra to an Indian Gaur, or even a leopard.
Agumbe, registered as a UNESCO World Heritage site, is known as the King Cobra capital of India. It is also home to more than 70 other species of snakes. In 2005, celebrated herpetologist Romulus Whitaker set up the Agumbe Rainforest and Research Station to study and conserve the famed reptile.
Plan Your Trip
Getting there
Air
The closest airport is Mangalore (approx. 100km away). The drive to Agumbe will take around 2.5 hours, via bus or a private cab.
Rail
The two closest railheads are Shimoga (90km away) and Udupi (54km away). The drive to Agumbe from either of these places will take around two hours by bus or cab.
Road
The drive from Bangalore to Agumbe takes around 7 hours (the distance is approx. 355km). Many buses ply from Bangalore and other cities to Agumbe.
best time to visit
June – September: Agumbe is at its best during the rainy season. The landscape transforms to a lush green, and the waterfalls are in full flow. This is also the best time to sight some of the region’s amazing herpetofauna. The place comes alive as many species of reptiles and amphibians come out of hibernation and get on with their need to breed.
October – February: In winter, the weather is very pleasant, but early mornings and late evenings can get a bit chilly. It is also a good time to visit the many viewpoints around Agumbe such as Sunset Viewpoint, and Kundadri Betta – make sure to time your visit to enjoy the spectacular sunsets over the hills. It’s a good season for watching birds and butterflies too.
March – May: Like all tropical rainforests, it does get hot and humid during summer, especially in the afternoons. The seasonal waterfalls don’t flow anymore. However, this is the best time to visit if one is keen to see the King Cobra, the longest venomous snake, as these are its breeding months. Calls for rescue and release are at their most frequent in summer.
Stay
Budget
- Dodda Mane: Episodes of the iconic TV series Malgudi Days were filmed in this home. If you’d like to stay there, contact Kasturi Akka at 08181-233075 or her son in-law, Ravikumar Pai at 9448603343. They can prepare food too, if told in advance, and their hospitality is something that has to be experienced to be believed. No rates are explicitly mentioned, as this is more of a pay-what-you-will place. Around ₹1,000 per day would not go amiss.
- Mallya Residency, close to the Agumbe bus stand, is another budget option, and will cost you around ₹600 per night.
Mid-range
- Kalinga Centre for Rainforest Ecology (KCRE) is a good mid-range option, that also offers tented accommodation. It is priced at around ₹2,000 per day.
- Hingaara Homestay is another option, at around ₹1,950 per day.
- Accommodation at Seethanadi Nature Camp, part of the Jungle Lodges & Resorts, is priced at around ₹1,500 per day.
High-end
There are no luxury options in Agumbe, so if you’re looking for something more high-end, you will need to stay in Udupi and drive down to visit.
- The Country Inn and Suites by Carlson, in Manipal, around 38km from Agumbe, will cost you ₹4,500 per night.
- UVA Meridian Bay Resort & Spa, around 55km from Agumbe, is around ₹2,500 per night.
Gallery
If you really want to experience a rainforest, find a stream to walk along. Photograph: Radha Rangarajan
Agumbe is the King Cobra (Ophiophagus hannah) capital of India. The King Cobra is the longest most venomous snake in the world.
The Ornate Flying Snake (Chrysopelea ornata) is a beautiful arboreal snake that is capable of gliding flight.
The Green Vine Snake (Ahaetulla nasuta) is a slender tree snake that moves slowly through the shrubs. It is so camouflaged you might mistake it for a vine.
Green Vine Snakes primarily hunt frogs and lizards.
The Malabar Gliding Frog (Rhacophorus malabaricus) is a tree frog that is endemic to the Western Ghats. The monsoon is a great time to see them.
The Southern Flying Lizard (Draco dussumieri) is a mostly arboreal lizard that glides from tree to tree. The males have a long yellow dewlap under their throat that they flick rapidly to attract females.
Agumbe is known for its amazing range of herpetofauna, including many varieties of Calotes.
You will come across many kinds of beautiful fungi on the nature trails in Agumbe.
This is a planthopper nymph. Planthoppers feed on plant sap.
Nature photographers flock to Agumbe in all seasons, but especially during the monsoons.
For an experience that's closer to nature, choose to stay in a tent, like those offered at KCRE.
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See | Do
- There are several nature trails and trekking paths around Agumbe, and all of them are rich with life. Many of the trails can be attempted on your own, but it is better to enlist the services of a local guide or get detailed information about the route before you set out. Snakes like Malabar Pit Vipers and Green Vine Snakes, and many frogs like the Blue-eyed Bush Frog, Malabar Gliding Frog, Amboli Bush Frog, and the Wayanad Bush Frog are common sights. At night, Agumbe resonates with an orchestra of frogs and crickets; in the morning, you’ll hear a multitude of cicadas.
- There are good places for birding, too. All the Western Ghats endemics can be sighted, including the Rufous Woodpecker, Malabar Trogon, Malabar Grey Hornbill, Yellow-browed Bulbul, Sri Lankan Frogmouths, Crested Goshawk, Malabar Woodshrike, Grey-fronted Green Pigeon and Orange Minivet.
- You will get to see many kinds of butterflies such as the Common Four-ring, Red Pierrot, Angled Pierrot, Monkey Puzzle, Blue Mormon, Chocolate Pansy, Red Helen, South Indian Blue Oakleaf and many others.
- Water cascades everywhere, especially in the monsoons. The hike to the Onakabbe waterfalls is a particularly wonderful one, and will take you around 2-3 hours.
- Don’t miss the Jogi Gundi waterfalls, where you will need to walk down a flight of stairs to reach the gushing cascade. It is truly a sight to behold.
- Sunset Viewpoint is a short drive away from the Agumbe Ghats. It is a popular spot from which to take in the wonderful view of the valley below. You might encounter Lion-tailed macaques and Great Hornbills en route.
- Someshwara Wildlife Sanctuary, about 40 minutes away from Agumbe, is a good place to visit. The boat ride is a good family activity, while the trail inside the sanctuary is great for sighting herpetofauna.
- Visit the Malgudi Days house while you are in Agumbe – a heritage home where many episodes of the famed Malgudi Days TV series were shot. Kasturi Akka and the other members in residence are great hosts. You can just drop in for a tour; there’s no need to call ahead.
- Kundadri Betta is a hillock with a small, old temple at its peak. It is a good place to visit for a glorious view of a sunrise. En route, you could encounter Indian Gaurs, among many other animals out there.
- Malpe beach (approx. 60km away) makes a nice change from the forest landscape.
- River rafting at the nearby Sitanadi Nature Camp is a good option for thrill seekers. It is located around 20km from Agumbe. There are a range of different rafting stretches to choose from. Prices start from Rs 2,400 per person.
Agumbe is a great place to sample Malnad cuisine. Buns and sweet pooris are a popular breakfast item you should try. Kadubu or rice balls are another great option, best paired with sambar. Most of the eateries there will offer these specialties; Mayura Hotel, located right at the Agumbe bus stand is one among many. On a rainy day, make sure to stop by any of the roadside eateries for a hot tea with bhajjis. Pure bliss.
Good to know
- There are plenty of trekking paths around Agumbe, but it is easy to get lost in the jungle. Take a local guide with you or get a map of the trail.
- Do not litter; carry plastic bags to use as trash bags to dispose of later.
- Night trails are a must, as this is the best time to see reptiles and amphibians.
- Do not feed wild animals like the Lion-tailed Macaques.
- Do not attempt to handle any of the wild animals that you might encounter. Leave that to the local guides.
- Try and avoid public holidays and long weekends, as Agumbe tends to get very crowded during these times, especially at the tourist points like Sunset View and Someshwara sanctuary.
What to pack
- Be ready to handle the rain. Agumbe is known as the Cherrapunji of the south for a reason. Umbrellas and raincoats are a necessity. Ponchos will work quite well too, except on the hill tops, where they might open up like parachutes! The same goes for umbrellas.
- A good pair of gumboots and leech socks are essential.
- A flashlight will be necessary to move around at night.
- During winter, a light jacket will come in handy.
- It’s always a good idea to carry a first-aid kit with you at all times.
- Carry ziplock bags to protect your personal belongings from the rain.
- Don’t forget to take spare batteries for all your equipment.
For photographers
- A macro lens is essential to make great memories of the myriad life forms at Agumbe. An external flash unit will also be helpful.
- A wide-angle lens (either a conventional one or one with macro capabilities) is useful when photographing animals in their habitat.
- You will need rain covers to protect your camera gear. DIY ones, like regular plastic bags, would work well too.
- A tripod will be useful if you plan on experimenting with slow shutter speeds when shooting the landscape.
Don't Miss
- Night trails offer the best experience of the rainforest.
- For those wanting to get even closer to nature, stay in tented accommodation such as KCRE.
- Look out for the mud bunds along the highway. Many tarantulas make small burrows within these bunds.
- Keep an eye out for varieties of colourful fungi, which adorn most of the trails you’ll traverse.
- Look out for the Southern Flying Lizards, or Dracos, which are most active during March-May, mostly around areca nut plantations. This is a great time to observe them gliding from tree to tree and indulging in territorial displays.
Budget per person
Stay at a mid-range hotel will cost around ₹1,500 per person per day. Food will be around ₹600 per day. Depending on the distance you want to cover and the spots you want to visit, you will spend around ₹100 per day on bus travel. Private cabs and autos will work out to be more expensive.
Tuesday, 27 June, 2017
We love a good critique but are infinitely partial to compliments. Both, roars and birdsong are welcome at [email protected]
Santhosh Krishnamoorthy
Naturalist and Photographer
Santhosh is a passionate naturalist and a nature photographer. He runs Birdwing Travel & Photography, where he mentors budding and amateur nature photographers. He posts as @santhosh.kris on Instagram and blogs at www.framesofnature.com
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